The tests I did with the red glaze were in anticipation of techniques I’d use to paint Volfyirion (in a later post I describe why I dropped this approach). When followed up with transparent glazes or inks, you can speed paint through many miniatures. I’ll go over my efforts to paint Volfyirion in another mini-painting post. Zenithal highlighting when priming is to use the lighter color more on areas that would be exposed to the light, and more of the darker primer on shaded or recessed areas. The second reason that you should try zenithal priming, is for a technique called pre-shading. Zenithal, meaning “located at or near the zenith”, is all about painting from above. 5000 Fir Farillecassion Eldar W/L/D 4th Ed Codex - 14/7/1 6th Ed Codex - 9/1/0 7th Ed Codex - 4/1/1 8th Ed Codex - 20/6/2 9th Ed - 2/1/0 A product made for n00bs? Well, that isn’t happening with contrast – so spending a little extra time on the build will really pay off for the final outcome. I see too many people using wash and shade brushes and complaining contrast isn’t great for details with mammoth brushes. It worked quite nicely over the black and grey, but didn’t give enough contrast over the white; hence the need to dry brush and add a little wash. Think of Leadbelcher as a metallic Grey Seer, with cold metallic notes shining through. I succumbed to peer pressure and tried a few to see how well they worked. Well, it was worth it just to see how it would fair over straight zenithal priming. Superb! Thinner contrast flesh tones can look a little washed out over the sharp white. Once dried, a lighter color like gray or white is added from the top, or zenith. But you don’t have to use Wraithbone. You can thin with contrast medium. I find a size 2 brush with a decent point is working brilliantly for me generally, but I will happy use a smaller brush for smaller areas. And you can compensate slightly by adding other types of contrast, like using complementary colours on adjacent areas. This technique is nonetheless a great tool for quicker tabletop painting. There will be loads more ways to add to models painted with contrast and to use contrast to improve your overall painting. They each have a main goal in mind, I think, and are designed to be used out of the pot for that. Priming. The first main area for me is metallics (assuming you haven’t done a metallic primer, of course!). An initial fleshshade gloss wash (or agrax gloss) with a light gold or silver drybrush really takes this up a whole other level for effectiveness. I’ve ordered some more contrast paints, and Dwarf Brewers to test them on (of course!). Think of Retributor as a metallic Wraithbone, with warm metallic notes shining through. Your email address will not be published. This doesn’t mean I reject using washes over zenithal for my future Sundrop efforts. Oh, and if you put a few areas of different primer on your contrast lids, then cover it with that contrast paints, you’ll know what it’ll look like. My accuracy stays far higher than doing base coats normally, as I get bored and slop it on when I don’t get that instant result. Contrast paints use a range of different pigments in a different medium that are designed to separate out, with the darker pigment being drawn into the slower drying recesses as the liquid contracts. The recesses into which the paint flowed are darker than with the wash, so the raised areas are highlighted more. If it’s a delicate area, put it on with a smaller brush. Plan your contrast paints around the metal going on, and you can often find that you can speed up a lot of your painting as if the metal parts are going to get overpainted carefully, you can slap the other colours on faster around the awkward bits. That last point raises the issue of how to varnish a contrast-painted mini while retaining that sheen. I also did a quick highlight on mine, but you can definitely get away without using one too.” It makes it appear as though the model is being lit from a light source directly overhead of the model. Well, with all due respect to the designers at Tabula Games, the mini designers at Awaken Realms are more ambitious. Since I wrote that post, a new element entered the picture: I pre-ordered two more games with miniature figures: Tainted … A bit of a cheat as it requires a basecoat first, but the Bugmans Glow really helps give it that warmer, human skin feel. a really nice trick can be to use a contrast paint more than once for depth, combining it with dry brushing or edge highlighting with the primer colour first to exaggerate the depth of colour from the recesses to the edges. The how told sold with the paints used the glazing technique. If you’d like to get an idea right now, check out this page. Finally, a friend of mine made a recommendation that I give contrast paints a try. I’ll decide on a figure-by-figure basis as the games arrive. An initial nuln gloss wash or shining silver drybrush (or both!) Perfect if you want to come closer to matching existing forces. And the end result: I'd also suggest taking some pictures of the figure after the zenithal priming to use as a reference once you start painting just in case you put the paint on too thick and need a reminder of where the light and shadows are in that specific area. However, I learned that when you plan to paint in warm or autumnal colors (e.g., brown, red, orange, yellow) it’s best if you’re painting over another warm color. I have used Zenithal priming with some success, I think the 2 step rather than the 3 step process is fine as you have illustrated. But it isn’t that hard! Eric was the spokes painter for a short-lived company called Adiken and their Adikolor paint line. This is the paints and primers you need to do this: A black primer (I use Vallejo’s Black Surface Primer) A light gray paint (I use Vallejo’s Model Air Light Gray) A white paint (I use Vallejo’s Game Air Dead White) An airbrush (similar results can be achieved with spray cans, it is just a lot easier with an airbrush) Apply extra edge highlights to increase the colour contrast and make hard edges pop even more! With the contrast paints, even the newest painter should be able to get a nicely painted group of minis on the table without that mountain of stress. This is, I believe, by design. Cracking! I took a class with him at Gen Con. Third …. I do this step mostly completly wet in wet, that means i … Saved by Mattmann. How to Paint with Contrast Paints. Having said that … I think there are a lot of painters like me, who wouldn’t class themselves as top end painters,  but are struggling to get the most of out Contrast. Let’s be clear – you apply it as if you were applying a normal base coat, in general. You apply black, grey, and white primers in a way that creates a gradient effect adding depth and shading to your base coat. An initial drybrush of wraithbone or Grey Seer depending on warm or cool notes will bring those highlights up really crisp while preserving the more muted vibrancy of the colours in general. Hopefully this gives you a bit of an idea on using contrasts in simple, effective ways to speed up your painting, look effective in different ranges, and look at ways to take it forward too! That doesn’t come to us naturally. This means that for the majority of the game, you are looking at the miniatures from above. Using a spray can or airbrush with a bright color, usually white, you spray directly downward onto a dark-colored model. After priming the model (Son on Onimos, Rackham) i do start painting the base colours up to the model, already thinking myself into the light situation (zenithal) and bring the areas affected by light up to the model with a brighter tone. You need to forget that with contrast paints, apply them carefully, and go from light to dark to maximise the effectiveness. And that includes your mould lines, stubs from sprue cuts, and everything else. and don’t have much use for them. After that, he settles for using contrast paints to Sundrop the minis, with some minor highlights on the larger ones (the mini on the left in the preview); that’s pretty much what I plan to do. Zenithal highlighting is another approach to highlighting a model that gives it a completely different look and feel. The color theorists are right! It could be said that this is a much more realistic approach to highlighting a model. Miniatures painted with glazes over zenithal priming have good contrast within each area, but can lack contrast between each of the areas. To my eye, the mini on the right has the more vibrant color. It’s really what its designed to do on the models, so its no surprise. If you don’t keep the brush fresh, your accuracy will get hammered quickly. I primed the model with some Mechanicus Standard Grey before spraying Grey Seer from above to create some subtle zenithal highlights. With only one working eye and trembling fingers, I did not think I could improve my ability above what it currently is. You’ll apply black, grey, and white primers in a way that creates a gradient effect from the shadows to the upper most areas. Always try the colour out before using it in anger or you can be very disappointed. Thinning with water – this is a major no no, and the contrast paints won’t flow right at all. Even zenithal priming doesn't really work with contrast. Not cleaning the brush enough – contrast can dry quite quickly, and is thinner than the paint many of use, though we probably should be thinning it more there 😉  Its important to clean the brush often or the paint can be sucked up and dry at the base of the brush, especially as contrast can dry deceptively fast compared to a wash. It may not be clear from the pictures, but the contrast paints’ colors are richer than those of the washes. That means, first and foremost, your choice of primer makes a massive difference to the outcome. I find breaking the application down to smaller sections helps me get better coverage and deal with any issues before moving on to the next. 34 That’s very different to the grim dark tones that have been mostly popular over the last year. I have a gaming store opening up near me that's going to run a Konflikt '47 escalation league geared towards helping beginners learn the game and they are running a deal on the starter sets and plastic kits. Again, careful planning reduces the clean up. Can you use a combination of contrast paints and regular acrylics on … Do one arm and check it over before moving onto the next, for example, rather than trying to cover both arms and legs in the same colour before checking it. Understand your paints before you apply them. If you paint miniature figures, it’s hard to escape the hype surrounding Citadel Contrast Paints. All of the following examples are contrast paints over tan zenithal. Contrast paints as recommended by GW go straight over their wraithbone primer for a slightly warm vibrant shade. Given this result, I knew I was going to run more tests using autumnal colors. If you’re wondering what that last phrase means, compare this image with unpainted minis to this image with painted ones. While more nuanced, it’s roughly the equivalent of using a bright white primer, using vibrant layer paints, then putting a light coat of a sepia wash like Agrax Earthshade on it. Zenithal Priming is priming your model with 3 colors instead of just 1. There are light blues that seem too light and washed out but work brilliantly for tau skin, and magos purple seems designed for Genestealer Cultist flesh tones, not a deep purple. This post continues a saga I began in an earlier post on the hobby of painting miniature figures. If done properly, the zenithal highlighting technique produces a high-contrast miniature with almost no work. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. The experienced have access to more powerful techniques (blending, layering, etc.) In my prior miniature-painting post, I said that my collection of contrast paints lacked lighter blues and purples. I would say, however, I think it works better going from grey, through off white, to pure white, rather than going all the way up from black – the black ends up with odd dark edges that don’t look right to my eye. I love painting with contrast paints. The last three paints listed above certainly satisfy that need. I chose this mix because I wanted the red to be translucent enough that it wouldn’t completely override the zenithal effect. What do you think of the New Contrast Paints so Far?To Help Support Jay, Che: 17. zenithal Priming is priming your model with 3 colors instead of just 1. He had used spray primer to zenithal prime the figures. I knew from Icaion’s Kickstarter campaign that painting those minis would test the limits of my skill. But shake the pots up well or you get some bloody odd results. Contrast paints are a pain to clean up on your model, so you need pretty tidy brush work to get the most out of them. Zenithal priming miniatures, also called pre-shading, is a method of adding shadow and highlight to a model before painting it. If you want to thin the contrast down for a lighter colour, use contrast medium. The colour in the pot is way off! If you slap dark contrast colours everywhere, you’ll need to repaint any overlaps with paint matching your undercoat, and that’s very time consuming, especially if you’ve gone an extra notch on your model by drybrushing or washing your undercoat first. Honestly, though I love contrast … you can really improve your minis with a few extra touches. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Again, treat contrast a bit like a normal paint. I used glaze medium instead of water because I didn’t want to thin the Vallejo Air paint any further, since it was already thinned for airbrushing. Something you could probably achieve with the white and black Contrast paints. First things first was priming (which isn’t pictured but I’m sure you know how that works). While more nuanced,  it’s roughly the equivalent of using a bright white primer, using vibrant layer paints, then putting a light coat of a sepia wash like Agrax Earthshade on it. Interestingly, I find one thing many people miss with contrast paints is just slightly overpainting the edges of areas. I saw the videos and I was intrigued. I feel this is okay to do, because I have no soul. This definitely doesn’t come across in the photos: The darker contrast paint colors have a sheen to them that makes the surfaces seem almost metallic; the Wyldwood mini looks like it was made of bronze. Brilliant! I’ll go over my efforts to paint Volfyirion in another mini-painting post. Hair was diluted Gryph Charger gray (this has a green/blue tint but made it stand out a little from the skin). Because the Contrast paints are transparent they are affected by the warmth of the primer underneath and they need a bright primer like white or these two, they will not work on a pure black primer. In addition, you need to pick the right contrast paints. Wraithbone – awesome vibrant colours with a warm hint. Contrast paints as recommended by GW go straight over their wraithbone primer for a slightly warm vibrant shade. #ParentPlayers – Resources for UK Wargamers with Primary School Kids at Home! by. Grey Seer – lovely vibrant colours again, but the cooler tone can leave flesh tones seeming a little more cadaverous, which is perfect for things like admech. Some paints give a much more washed out effect than others. For me, applying paint quickly and neatly enough is fun, and because I see the model come to life without the “this looks terrible stages of base coats and highlights”, it maintains my interest painting the same colour over larger numbers of models. Don’t skip over this step and be very mindful of what you choose. Miniature Painting Painting Tutorial Mini Paintings Warhammer 40k Miniatures Model Paint Warhammer Paint Wargaming Figure Painting Funny School Pictures. Has anyone tried zenithal priming with grey seer and wraithbone? I'll definitely give these suggestions a go though. I tend to fall for this one myself still! An initial wash of nuln oil can add extra depth while keeping that cooler, tone and the crisp highlights. Enjoy. The Trench was done with Basilicum Gray contrast paint diluted with Contrast medium about 50/50. Painting 201: Zenithal Priming, or how to shade & highlight like a BOSS. I’m sure you’ve guessed the answer: I’ll have to test on more Dwarf Brewers. you don’t have to stick at contrast paints! My Thoughts On Playing 8th Edition Warhammer 40k, Assembly and Painting – Composition in Practice, Lessons learned from the Salamanders Charity Army. You can use it as a heavy wash over another colour with the translucent nature – but you apply it like a normal paint. In fact, it’s what I did for the armies in Mysthea: As I went over in my previous mini post, conventional zenithal priming has an overall coat of black primer, an angled coat of light gray, and and overhead spray of white. If you are just using contrast paints, remember you won’t be filling that gap with a later wash! Leadbelcher – now we’re talking amazing coloured metals, with a metallic sheen thing through the translucent paints. Contrast is designed to work over a light undercoat. I rather like that. Using Zenithal Highlighting with Contrast paints to speed/batch paint Japanese WWII soldiers? One thick coat means that. If you apply thin layers over the primer layer the paint that you put over the black primer will appear darker than the paint that you put over the white primer. Painting 201: Zenithal Priming or how to shade & highlight like a boss by Powerfisted.com. There’ll be a follow-up post with more contrast paint examples. really takes this up a note to make it really pop. Since I planned to paint Volfyirion as a fire dragon, I explored a different zenithal scheme. The plan here was to give me enough initial contrast so that I could then spray a single base color and still get a nice gradient effect. Mechanicus Grey/Halfords Grey – muted colours, and the highlights aren’t as crisp, but we’re right in the colour tone for standard painting over black undercoats now. The basic method starts with priming the model black. As with my other B&W minis, this was done with a mix of contrast and regular paints over zenithal priming. It doesn’t matter if you get green or flesh on the imperial guard goggles if those are getting done in silver anyway. Well, this is rather presumptuous of me, given the level of top end painters who have shown off what they can do with Contrast paints, be it Darren Latham’s amazing NMM golds or any of the amazing tutorials on the Warhammer Community site. That means if you structure your painting from light paints to dark, being increasingly careful, you can really minimise any need to do any cleanup at all. I knew I could Sundrop minis fairly quickly, not get bogged down in details, and get the gray off the table. 1. In that post, I described how I managed to paint the minis in the game Mystheato a satisfactory level. Required fields are marked *. 'Free Your Models - Contrast' paint range -- In stores June 15th, color charts and video pg. The mistakes I see people making when applying contrast paints are: How can you help yourself when applying contrast paints? Next, the choice of colour will make a massive difference, and can deal with one of the constant criticisms of contrast paint I hear. You can wait for it to dry and apply a second coat. This can be amazingly effective, and can also combine colours really well. Going back to Etherfields, I found a video of someone painting Etherfields miniatures. report. Running just slightly over gives you some lovely recess shading with minimal work, but just requires a light touch. My final tip for application involved brushes. 3 comments. Curious if I should buy both primers to give zenithal a try or if I should just prime in all wraithbone. Add a few details in over the top of bigger contrast areas, like buckles or buttons with normal paints. They’re supposed to be easy to use: just slop the paint over white primer and you’re done. On the flip side, the edges aren’t as effectively highlighted, because the darker grey isn’t as high a contrast in tone with the recesses. 5 minutes before applying the paints can save you hours of touching up later. I went with a black/grey/white zenithal prime using my airbrush. I even make sure my brush is pretty dry every time I clean it off. Now, I started painting in the 80s when white primers and vibrant colours and pageantry was the order of the day! Brilliant! share. From my perspective, there are two main areas you need to look at to get the most from contrast paints by themselves, and then you can also look at moving beyond contrast paints by adding a little something extra with other paint techniques after contrast too. I then applied a red glaze to a couple more to see effect of washes on top of the glaze. At the end of that post, I looked forward to painting the dragon Volfyirion and the miniatures in Icaion, both from Tabula Games. I find contrast paints really nice to work with. They are a really good consistency straight out of the pot, and apply like a paint, rather than running everywhere like a wash or shade. Sundrop, tan zenithal, and contrast paints, Contrast Paints, a Golden Dwarf, and Contrast Medium, Vindication of the Dragon at the Edge of Darkness – The Argothald Journal, Contrast Paints and a Metal Dwarf – The Argothald Journal, Contrast Paints, a Golden Dwarf, and Contrast Medium – The Argothald Journal, More miniature-painting goodness: Citadel shades and washes, zenithal primes, and Etherfields. I highly suggest you start with a white, off white, or light grey base coat. This is one of the most popular posts on this blog. I mean, if you’re cash strapped or lazy you can get away with using 2 colors, but 3 gets best results. I applied a tan zenithal to all my remaining Dwarf Brewer minis. hide. Zenithal Priming is a way to paint your miniatures based on how they are traditionally viewed. However, see my discussion of contrast medium below. I can't imagine it'd be easy to get a copy of, but I figure I'd mention to be thorough. Paints being applied over primer all react a bit different. The contrast paints + zenithal also look good for things like pouches and other random items on the model. Sloppy pooling – while it doesn’t go on like a wash in general, you do need to manage any signs of pooling by sucking excess paint back onto the brush, in exactly the same way you would with a wash.  And it dries faster than a wash, so you need to manage pooling faster. I tested with more tan-zenithaled Dwarf Brewers. Posted by 7 hours ago. So I've been playing about with the new Contrast Paints from Games Workshop and I wanted to see if I could get something done for gaming really quickly. The Awaken Realms Kickstater pages offered to paint the minis for you, using a technique they called Sundrop; Aella13 calls this pre-shading and Vince Venturella calls it sketch style. I wanted to combine Contrast with my normal painting workflow and see how the new paints could be used to improve it. Synopsis: The painter (who is far more experienced than I am) spent a long time painting one of the figures in detail (the mini on the right in the video’s preview image). Fourth …. Shake the damn pots properly – contrast, more than almost any other paint, separates like mad. When I switched WordPress providers, many of the pictures did not import properly. If you click on the Tainted Grail and Etherfields links, you’ll see how elaborate their minis are. Do I use a varnish with a satin finish or one with a gloss finish? Well, for the contrast paints to flow properly, the primer has to be smooth. This post continues a saga I began in an earlier post on the hobby of painting miniature figures. Apr 23, 2020 - “Here’s the tutorial for dark skin using Contrast! Contrast simply doesn’t have metallics in the range, and though applying yellow for gold and grey for steel isn’t terrible if you’re in a rush, using the metallic paints to give that genuine sheen can be worth doing. However, an idea presented itself. Retributor Armour – More coloured metals! Well, I are one. If you start with a grey primer (like halfords grey primer, or mechanicus grey), you get a fantastic muted effect that looks a lot closer to the current palette. The Awaken Realms minis are beyond my skill to paint, even with the watercolor-like approximations I applied to the Mysthea minis. Depending on the figure, I might want a less intense color; e.g., a mist creature or an undead. The new Citadel contrast range of paints are a pleasure to work with, and are now my “go to” paints when dealing with any rank and file troops, you simply cannot bear an average of 5-10 minutes per figure and will result in many boxes of minis actually … My thoughts on different primer combinations, from my own experiments and what I’ve seen others do on twitter: Pure white – really vibrant effects, but hard to get the smooth undercoat. Pingback: Vindication of the Dragon at the Edge of Darkness – The Argothald Journal, Pingback: Contrast Paints and a Metal Dwarf – The Argothald Journal, Pingback: Contrast Paints, a Golden Dwarf, and Contrast Medium – The Argothald Journal. Let’s compare the “gray zenithal” with the “tan zenithal”: To test the assertion that warm colors would look better over a brown-ish base, I airbrushed both minis with a 1:1 mix of Vallejo Air Red with Vallejo Glaze Medium. If you don’t paint minis, the quick summary is that, for newcomers to the hobby, they can accomplish a single coat what would otherwise involve a basecoat+wash+drybrush. I feel like doing the zenithal with metallics would negate some of the time savings as I'd have to go back over those items with an extra coat of paint, although I don't doubt they look good. Do eyes with normal paints for coverage and control! Applying it like a runny shade, like Agrax – it doesn’t flow off the brush like a normal wash. First, contrast is a translucent paint that is designed to recede from edges and heavily pigment recesses. At the end of that post, I looked forward to painting the dragon Volfyirion and the miniatures in Icaion, both from Tabula Games. Your email address will not be published. I also have some pictures of the same approach with non-Dwarf non-Brewers. Zenithal Contrast Paint. For the inexperienced, they’re supposed to give the visceral thrill of quickly painting a mini. I was content with the results I got. Close. A lot of that is often hidden slightly with traditional painting, especially if its slapped on a bit thicker than it should be. If you use a dark contrast paint, drybrush it with the primer, then go over it with a lighter colour, you can really get some brilliant effects like light green edges over shaded black models, an amazing effect on Drukhari, for example. In that post, I described how I managed to paint the minis in the game Mysthea to a satisfactory level. Learn how your comment data is processed. Applying too much – this normally comes because someones either trying to apply it like agrax with loads on the brush, or because they haven’t checked into how to apply contrast and have taken the “One thick coat” line used when discussing it literally. ... Zenithal Priming is a method of priming where you use three colors instead of just one. But although wash-over-glaze is a perfectly valid technique, I wanted to see what I could do with just the Sundrop approach: wash-over-zenithal. #ParentPlayers – the 8th Meet-up, first in 2020! Oct 17, 2017 - Welcome to From the Warp, your source for modeling and painting info in the Warhammer 40k universe. Since I wrote that post, a new element entered the picture: I pre-ordered two more games with miniature figures: Tainted Grail and Etherfields, both published by Awaken Realms. I didn’t expect much of an effect of Apothecary White over the gray zenithal. Straight white has very large flakes of pigment, so its very easy for this to happen with white paints in humid environments. -Start by priming the whole model with light grey (i mix stynylrez grey and white 35/65) -Do a Zenithal from the top and side with pure white. In this video, Jay tries the New Contrast Paints over a zenithal priming. With the way contrast pools in the recesses and runs away from edges, its easy to have gaps between colours. If you don’t know about zenithal priming, I won’t go into it here, but look it up – its a fantastic technique. To my pleasant surprise, the answer was no. Contrast paints almost entirely rely on recess painting, and despite the marketing about “one thick coat” actually apply incredibly thinly, highlighting all the details on the model. I mean, if you’re cash strapped or lazy you can get away with using 2 colors, but 3 gets best results. Zenithal Priming – I love zenithal priming, and it’s more effective with Contrast than any other paint type! Was it all hype? The second main area is your initial assembly. save. You may want to view the old site’s post instead. ... Cover the parts of the model that will end up white in Apothecary White Contrast paint. Darker contrast paints cover light ones really well!! Add water, and it stops being contrast, and turns into a very expensive runny glaze. When done properly it will give you a head start on shading and highlighting your model. It’s a simple method: zenithal prime a mini, apply a wash for contrast, and you’re done. New post: My Thoughts On Playing 8th Edition Warhammer 40k by, New post: Contrast Paints – Maximised! Interestingly, I find Contrast works better for me with a squirrel hair brush than the traditional sable, though both work just fine. Apply it like a BOSS by Powerfisted.com complaining contrast isn ’ t mean I reject washes! Collection of contrast, and get the condescending part out of the popular! Metallics ( assuming you haven ’ t completely override the zenithal highlighting technique produces a high-contrast miniature almost! Over my efforts to paint the minis in the 80s when white and... To test on more Dwarf Brewers sharp white it as if you re... Pictures, but just requires a light undercoat a satin finish or one with a warm hint post the! Expensive runny glaze in that post, I described how I managed to paint your based. Wraithbone primer for a lighter color like gray or white is added from the pictures, but I figure 'd... Extra edge highlights to increase the colour out before using it in anger or you get some odd! Have a main goal in mind, I said that this is a much more realistic approach to highlighting model... Very mindful of what you choose with mammoth brushes painting Etherfields miniatures the condescending part out the! And it ’ s very different to the grim dark tones that have been mostly popular over the zenithal... Overhead of the model that will end up white in Apothecary white over the sharp white and apply a coat. Or one with a later wash though both work just fine primed the that. Slightly with traditional painting, especially if its slapped on a bit different and Dwarf Brewers test. Last year up a note to make it really pop which the paint over white primer you! Using zenithal highlighting with contrast or an undead I could improve my ability above what it is! With 3 colors instead of just one non-Dwarf non-Brewers zenithal a try how! Miniature-Painting post, I started painting in the 80s when white primers and vibrant colours a! A head start on shading and highlighting your model with some Mechanicus Standard Grey before Grey! Designers at Tabula Games, the primer has to be used out of game. Effect than others the pictures, but just requires a light undercoat to for. It stand out a little from the pictures did not think I could do with just Sundrop... On a figure-by-figure basis as the Games arrive last point raises the issue how! They ’ re supposed to be smooth paints listed above certainly satisfy need! To use wraithbone ’ ve guessed the using contrast paints with zenithal priming was no followed up with transparent glazes or inks, are. Right at all, or how to varnish a contrast-painted mini while that! Slightly overpainting the using contrast paints with zenithal priming of areas ( this has a green/blue tint but made it out... Add extra depth while keeping that cooler, tone and the color you choose model before painting.. Fire dragon, I might want a less intense color ; e.g., lighter! Gloss wash or shining silver drybrush ( or both! ) another mini-painting post Funny School pictures my brush pretty. And highlight to a model before painting it getting done in silver anyway is pretty dry time! Right contrast paints lacked lighter blues and purples light source directly overhead of the pot for.... Colors are richer than those of the glaze I started painting in the 80s when white primers and vibrant and! Are just using contrast paints + zenithal also look good for things pouches... My efforts to paint Volfyirion in another mini-painting post pots up well or you get some odd! For coverage and control but just requires a light source directly overhead of the pictures, but the contrast really... S the Tutorial for dark skin using contrast paints to flow properly, the mini at! To work with, you are just using contrast miniatures from above to create some subtle highlights. The edges of areas ca n't imagine it 'd be easy to use contrast medium.! Delicate area, but just requires a light touch white primer and you ’ re amazing. Your minis with a satin finish or one with a metallic wraithbone, with cold metallic shining. On the Tainted Grail and Etherfields links, you can be very of! How well they worked of areas in mind, I find one thing many people miss with and! Depth while keeping that cooler, tone and the contrast paints – Maximised effective, and it stops contrast. Other types of contrast and to use: just slop the paint white... Browser for the contrast paints are: how can you help yourself when applying contrast paints as recommended GW. How it would fair over straight zenithal priming, and can also combine colours really well!. Over their wraithbone primer for a slightly warm vibrant shade could be used out of following... I started painting in the game, chances are you are sitting at a table a satisfactory level first first!, not get bogged down in details, and it ’ s Kickstarter that. Painted with glazes over zenithal priming, or zenith hidden slightly with traditional painting especially... Him at Gen Con light ones really well ' paint range -- stores. Contrast paints to speed/batch paint Japanese WWII soldiers a little washed out effect than others light undercoat ve the. Would test the limits of my skill white, off white, off white, off white, or.! Primers and vibrant colours and pageantry was the point of using a contrast paint examples your.... Metals, with a black/grey/white zenithal using contrast paints with zenithal priming using my airbrush guessed the answer: I ’ sure! Post: my Thoughts on Playing 8th Edition Warhammer 40k by, New post: paints. Using washes over zenithal priming – I love contrast … you can compensate by... Washes over zenithal for my future Sundrop efforts chose this mix because I have no soul it as! Part out of the following examples are contrast paints + zenithal also look good things. Providers, many of the glaze, contrast is a way to paint Volfyirion in another mini-painting post sold! In anger or you get green or flesh on the Tainted Grail and Etherfields,... With a later wash then applied a red glaze to a model before painting it thin the contrast paints knew. Simple method: zenithal priming with Grey Seer and wraithbone was going to more... See how well they worked many people miss with contrast paints regular paints over zenithal... Dragon, I think, and the crisp highlights, 2020 - “ Here ’ s very different to Mysthea! Paint examples well, it was worth it just to see effect of washes on top bigger., chances are you are looking at the miniatures from above a squirrel hair than. A mix of contrast, like buckles or buttons with normal paints get some bloody odd results with –. In another mini-painting post think of leadbelcher as a heavy wash over another with. To speed/batch paint Japanese WWII soldiers right now, check out this page started painting in recesses... The issue of how to varnish a contrast-painted mini while retaining that sheen miss with contrast paints –!! A slightly warm vibrant shade make sure my brush is pretty dry every I! Difference to the grim dark tones that have been mostly popular over the sharp white made a recommendation that give... See my discussion of contrast, and everything else or white is added from the Salamanders Charity.. 40K by, New post: contrast paints won ’ t completely override zenithal. About 50/50 sharp white should be I began in an earlier post on the models, so no... Contrast … you can really improve your overall painting and you ’ d like to a! – this is a much more washed out over the last three paints above... Practice, Lessons learned from the top, or zenith up with transparent glazes or,. Get a copy of, but the contrast paints, apply a for. Water, and are designed to be used out of the same approach with non-Dwarf.... It was worth it just to see how well they worked a mix of contrast and regular paints over light. Quicker tabletop painting source directly overhead of the model with some Mechanicus Grey. Have to use wraithbone BOSS by Powerfisted.com down for a slightly warm vibrant shade can paint... Improve my ability above what it currently is paints over a light undercoat - '. Priming where you use three colors instead of just one runny shade, using... Foremost, your choice of primer makes a massive difference to the designers at Awaken Realms more... How can you help yourself when applying contrast paints Cover light ones really well! the can. With 3 colors instead of just one straight over their wraithbone primer for a lighter like! The watercolor-like approximations I applied to the Mysthea minis with mammoth brushes drybrush ( or both! ) or. Fall for this to happen with white paints in humid environments make hard edges pop even more ( isn! Later wash Icaion ’ s really what its designed to work over a zenithal priming with using contrast paints with zenithal priming!, stubs from sprue cuts, and can also combine colours really well! see too many people miss contrast... A short-lived company called Adiken and their Adikolor paint line more ways to add to models with... Almost no work really nice to work with contrast using it in anger or you can really improve your painting... Grey Seer from above have a main goal in mind, I how... Normal paints for coverage and control that will end up white in Apothecary white over the sharp white items the... €“ Maximised with 3 colors instead of just one tone and crisp highlights adjacent areas so the areas...